ICONS ONLY: Twenty-five years after his death, Gianni Versace is the subject of an upcoming retrospective at the Groninger Museum in the Netherlands which bills itself as the largest exhibition of the work of the Italian fashion designer.
The exhibition features women’s and men’s outfits, accessories, fabrics, designs, interiors and images from Versace’s heyday in the 1990s, sourced from the archives of major private collectors of his work. The Versace family and company are not involved and have not approved the event.
Visitors will be able to see iconic creations like the safety pin dress that launched Elizabeth Hurley to international stardom in 1994, on loan from the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, and the key looks from the fall 1991 runway that crystallized the supermodel moment, with a cast including Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington, Cindy Crawford and Naomi Campbell.
“Gianni Versace understood the power of the media better than anyone. He laid the foundation for today’s influencers. Versace has seated celebrities rather than fashion journalists in the front rows of its shows,” the museum said in a statement.
“He also dressed them for red carpet appearances and performances. Rapper 2Pac often wore the designer’s silk shirts on stage and performed at a 1996 Versace show in Milan. Versace’s strategy has been extremely successful in reaching a mass audience,” he added.
“Gianni Versace Retrospective”, curated by Karl von der Ahé and Saskia Lubnow, will run from December 3 to May 7. It is organized in collaboration with collectors Antonio Caravano, with Sabina Albano as curator of the collection, as well as Salvatore Alderuccio and Franco Jacassi, owner of the Milanese store Vintage Delirium.
The exhibition is organized around the creator’s sources of inspiration, each gallery presenting a unique decor. One is devoted to American pop culture of the 90s and features the music of Elton John and the art of Andy Warhol, which inspired Versace’s spring 1991 collection, with multicolored prints of Marilyn Monroe . — JOELLE DIDERICH
AUSTRALIAN WINNERS: Australian artist Ken Done has won the Lifetime Achievement Award at the 2022 Australian Fashion Laureates.
Considered the industry’s supreme trophy, the award was among seven Australian fashion winners who were presented at a luncheon at Sydney’s Museum of Contemporary Art on Tuesday.
One of the country’s most prominent artists, whose work has been featured in more than 100 solo exhibitions in Australia and around the world, Done, now 82, gave up a successful career as a creative director at advertising agencies in New York, London and Sydney to focus on painting full-time in 1980. His vibrant and naïve depictions of Australiana and notably Sydney landmarks helped define the cultural zeitgeist of the 80s in Australia and proved a commercial goldmine, exploiting in particular the Japanese tourism boom of the decade.
From his gallery in Sydney, Done and his wife Judy began selling T-shirts and sweatshirts featuring his prints, which proved popular. They expanded into swimwear, resort wear, bed linens, and other household items. By the end of the decade, they operated 15 stores across the country.
Merchandise Ken Done was not only a star player in Olivia Newton-John’s ’80s Koala Blue chain of stores, which operated in the United States, Asia and Europe, he also designed the logo for the Mark. His many licensing deals, at his peak, included deals with Mervyn and Bart Jacobs department stores in California.
Designer of the Year at this year’s awards was won by sibling design duo Camilla Freeman-Topper and Marc Freeman, of the Camilla and Marc label.
Emerging Designer of the Year was won by Alémais label’s Lesleigh Jermanus – Jermanus’ second major award of the year, having won the 2022 National Designer Award in July.
Indigenous Designer of the Year was awarded to Laura Thompson, co-founder of Indigenous social enterprise and fashion brand Clothing The Gaps.
Sarah Munro and Robert Sebastian Grynkofki of jewelry brand Sarah and Sebastian received the Sustainable Innovation of the Year award. Long focused on sustainability, the duo recently pledged to donate A$1 million, or $667,000 at today’s exchange rate, to ocean conservation efforts over the next decade.
The Carla Zampatti Award for Excellence in Leadership was won by Leila Naja Hibri, Chief Executive of the Australian Fashion Council.
The People’s Choice Award, which is decided by a public vote organized by Afterpay, the naming rights sponsor of Australian Fashion Week, was won by Rebecca Vallance. — PATTY HUNTINGTON
BRUNELLO’S NEW HOUSE: Brunello Cucinelli seems to have taken root in Los Angeles.
The designer, executive chairman and creative director of his eponymous fashion label, is the new owner of a 1920s Spanish Colonial Revival home in Runyon Canyon.
The residence was purchased for $5 million in an off-market transaction, according to Dirt, revealing that the property was previously owned by entertainment executive Robert Geary for decades. It would be a five-bedroom, three-bathroom house on two floors and over 3,800 square feet. The site notes Susan Andrews and Justin Roberts of Compass represented the seller, while Brent Watson and Marco Salari, both of Coldwell Banker Realty, worked with Cucinelli on the transaction.
Born in Castel Rigone, near Perugia in Italy, Cucinelli is known to have resided in a 17th-century villa in Solomeo, Italy, since the 1980s. His headquarters are nearby. The brand, which went public in 2012, has grown significantly since its inception. Launching the company in 1978 with a line of dyed cashmere knitwear, Cucinelli is known for offering a wide range of luxury products internationally.
In Los Angeles, her neighbors would include composer Harald Kloser, filmmaker Alan Ball, actress Katey Sagal and actor Julian Morris. — RYMA CHIKHOUNE
IN THE GARDEN: The golden pop-up.
British jewelry brand Missoma has opened its first pop-shop in London Covent Garden. The business is on an upward trajectory, in 2021 it recorded 74% growth in sales to £33m, up from £19m in 2020.
A temporary physical store is intended to allow the brand to test the temperature of retail. Missoma already has counters in the department stores Selfridges and Liberty’s Jewelery Hall.
“It feels like a new opportunity because it gives us the freedom to experiment and create as we want. We can also set the rules, like put Missoma x Mirabeau Late Night Shopping every Thursday and exclusive style events that will feature amazing partners [to be announced soon]Marisa Hordern, Managing Director and Creative Director of the brand, told WWD.
“As we grow, we create physical spaces where we can connect with our community, and our community can connect with our product in real life. We understand that physical retail is essential to growing our market share and evolve our brand,” she continued.
There was a request from the Missoma community for a brick and mortar. The brand will neighbor the annual Covent Garden Christmas tree, a conscious move by Hordern.
“Our jewelery is handcrafted by artisans – from its design in our Notting Hill studio, to the encrustation of hand-cut gemstones and the hand-painting of our enamel,” Hordern said, focusing on the four pillars of Missoma that have helped the brand. succeed: community, craftsmanship, sustainability and style.
The company is working on its Worn on Repeat campaign, which emphasizes longevity and portability. “It also ties in with our efforts to create less, but better,” added Horden.
“Our sustainability initiatives and how we work to reduce our carbon footprint will be front and center. This year, we will take our first steps towards circularity, in partnership with Center of Saint Martin. We will give MA Design students our unsold jewelry to recycle into new pieces from which we will choose a winning design. This design will inspire a limited-edition collection that we will be selling locally,” Horden said. —HIKMAT MOHAMMED
STELLA’S HOLIDAYS: For the holidays, Stella McCartney has teamed up with Neiman Marcus to launch a partywear capsule of ready-to-wear and accessories. To celebrate the exclusive collection, Neiman Marcus is holding three pop-ups at its Coral Cables, Florida; North Park, Texas and San Francisco locations.
“Blending a celebratory spirit with conscious sensibilities, the capsule embodies timeless sex appeal on a vibrant nature-inspired palette,” the brand said in a statement.
The capsule collection includes 10 cocktail and evening dresses, two vegan Falabella bags and a crystal mesh slide in the brand’s cruelty-free and responsible materials. McCartney’s dresses display a festive attitude with heat-set lead-free crystal accents, as seen on the shoulder of an asymmetrical Grecian dress in purple and red silky viscose satin or body-hugging cocktail dresses in net. The collection’s crystal embellishments and twisted, cut-out, sculptural bra detailing on the jersey numbers would have been references to the designer’s fall collection. —EMILY MERCER