Melissa, vice president of womenswear at the trend forecasting agency, recently discussed these and other questions fashion trends excerpts from the latest fashion shows during a live webinar.
“I think in terms of funds [the cargo pant] was really exciting. We hadn’t seen this for a while. And the conversation about freight content continues to grow,” she said. “We see it in so many different ways. It’s not just Y2K centric, though it can be positioned that way with great jeans or denim expressions and twills. We’re also extending it to not only your bottom pant style, but also a cropped style that we saw at Givenchy. Fendi’s silky, satiny cargo pants and Louis Vuitton’s oversized pockets are also good examples of the wave of cargo design, Moylan added.
She surmised that this return to function and increased clothing storage capacity were rooted in the “revenge journeys” people are taking after being stuck at home during the pandemic.
“Utility designs will continue to surface,” Moylan continued. “We’ve seen that from an expression of retail in a really big way with these huge big utility pockets, especially those from Miu Miu. We’ve also seen it in the form of items like cargo pants and outerwear like parkas and bomber jackets are making a comeback.
She also mentioned Altuzarra as a good example of fashion. This label was inspired by “intrepid explorers,” but added a bohemian layer with shibori dyes, another trend she said was obvious.
However, she named “the column” the definitive Spring/Summer 2023 silhouette. body curves,” she said. “We even saw variations in denim. For example, this could tap into the recurring theme of knit sweater dresses.
A flared shape is also a popular look in what she called “a very denim-heavy season.”
Dyes and color, whether muted or bold, are other big news, Moylan noted.
“We’re really excited about the return of pastels this season,” she said. After two years dominated by “really bold and vibrant hues,” she added, “this season has kind of marked a return to softer colors with a lighter sensibility that is led by soft colors, like pinks, tangerine, citrine and blues and yellows. We also started to see more saturated pastels emerge, like the deeper tone of lavender and mint green.
While pale hues are back, bright colors continue to be important accents. Calling them “highlighter” shades, Moylan said neon yellow, lime and chartreuse continue to grow and evolve in new collections.
Cutouts have appeared on many dresses as well as stockings where skin flashes at the hips, tapping into “new erogenous zones,” she said. “It’s almost like everything is fair game here. So we see the exposed shoulders, the busts as well as the sides which continue to be the focus of the cutout details.
The revival of the year 2000 also remains topical with the burning man festival serving as an inspiration for luxury brands. “We had Sportmax in Milan where they were inspired by ravers and even Hermès in Paris incorporated Burning Man-style prints and patterns. But ultimately this look is about bright pops of color, sheer materials, lots of skin revealing, items we keep seeing than clothes that are just more body-hugging, items like corsets or bustiers to wide tops as well as extreme minis,” she said.
She added that Blumarine’s Little Mermaid-themed collection likely captured the Y2K trend with its denim and nods to Oceania.
In general, she said denim continues its ever-evolving progression for Spring 2023. “We’ve seen denim go through this kind of youthful way evolution or rebellious launch,” she said. “Denim serves as a new catch-all category for all things artistic with interpretations or details like material embroidery in terms of washes. We have seen the return of these kinds of yellowed sandblast effects, as well as recycled materials.