Jil Sander Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection

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The first season Luke and Lucie Meier designed Jil Sander, around spring 2018 they put women and men on the runway. Soon after, the designers separated the collections. “They needed to be fed separately,” they said backstage. They’ve been in charge here for five years, and they’ve brought them together. “That’s how we design men, together with women,” they explained.

This point was made with the established looks: monochromatic suits, with a loose silhouette and light colors, which were modeled by both genders. “We wondered what felt modern,” Lucie said. All of Milan has gone sexy (not an unusual trend here in the spring), but the Meiers have a different take on modernity. “We looked to contrast glamor with very simple workwear, our fundamental very simple boss cut, and then do more eccentric things,” Luke said. This can mean something as simple as cutting silk satin cargo pants or as extravagant as pairing a strapless confetti sequin evening dress with sneakers.

The Meiers have always incorporated craftsmanship into their work, but while in the past macrame and crochet gave their garments an earthy sensibility, this collection had a brilliant shine – the glamor factor. A tank top and midi-kilt were adorned with cloud-shaped mirrors, and the range’s unique print was removed from the grid on the streets of Los Angeles after dark, with the lights on creating a graphic pattern. A knit dress was made of heavy yarn with baked sequins, and there were feathers galore: peeking from the hem of a sleeveless cotton dress, wrapped around the neck, decorating the large clutch which was one of their bags of the season. Most luscious was the final group of looks, whose excess sequined knit fringe bounced like jellyfish as the models strode down the gravel runway.

If there was a downside to replenishing collections, it was repetition. The rain that fell on the outdoor location couldn’t be avoided (hence the umbrellas in these photos, a generous gesture), but the designers could have cut to length. There’s nothing sexier than belief.

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