Even during the pandemic, when marriages were curtailed and brides around the world were forced to put their plans on hold, the fantasy “never went away,” she added.
A dress from Monique Lhuiller’s latest bridal collection. Credit: Monique Lhuillier / KT Merry
“(The brides) never wanted to compromise on the dress. Even though they were going to have a little ceremony, they still wanted the dream dress … (if there were) five people in the room with them , or 200. “
Lhuillier has been distributing fantasies – and fulfilling her own dreams of running a successful label – since 1996, when she set up her eponymous brand in the basement of her parents’ house in Malibu without even a business plan (” we don’t have I don’t know nothing. for ten years when they devoted “90% of their time” to the business.
A floral dress by Monique Lhuillier. Credit: Monique Lhuillier / Rizzoli
At the time, Lhuillier, who was born and raised in the Philippines and then lived in Switzerland, was inspired by a sense of “Californian ease,” she writes in a new book retracing her 25-year career. Her early designs offered romantic, modern silhouettes that were close to the body and embellished with unexpected details, from colorful belts to blush veils.
However, the brand was not, Lhuillier recalled, an instant dazzling success. As she ran between bridal shows and catwalks, calling out whoever would sell her brand’s dresses – while also running a Beverly Hills store and developing new designs – there was no time to work with. Hollywood stylists. And anyway, the pair “didn’t realize the power of celebrity dressing,” she said.
Angelina Jolie wearing Monique Lhuillier at the 2002 Golden Globes, accompanied by Billy-Bob Thornton. Credit: Gregg DeGuire / WireImage / Getty Images
But that all changed in 2002, when Angelina Jolie asked to wear one of her dresses for the Golden Globes. The elegant look was not a cream, beige or white, but rather a strapless black dress paired with a shawl and pearl necklace. Then, the following year, the brand was noticed when Lhuillier made for the first time a wedding dress for a “mega celebrity”: Britney Spears.
Spears was splashed in every magazine back then. After kissing Madonna at the VMAs, then marrying Jason Allen Alexander – only to have the union called off 55 hours later – she went on to announce a surprise engagement to backup dancer Kevin Federline.
In search of a dress for the wedding, a friend and stylist of Spears contacted Lhuillier and arranged a series of dates in secret places to prevent the paparazzi from harassing the singer. It made it difficult to give Spears “the whole experience of a bride,” the designer recalled, as she couldn’t just show up to her studio.
Monique Lhuillier’s ready-to-wear collection, presented during Spring-Summer Paris Fashion Week in 2017. Credit: Monique Lhuillier / Rizzoli
“I didn’t just bring her two dresses, I showed her what I would show to (all) my brides, so that she could feel like she really had the (typical bridal) experience,” said said Lhuillier, explaining how the brand designed the bespoke lace, accessories and veil for Spears, as well as the dress.
Lhuillier was also commissioned to make a “fun and flirty” reception dress and dresses for the whole wedding party, in a strict color scheme. She was given six weeks to design and produce everything, a huge task considering she was also preparing to show off a ready-to-wear collection at New York Fashion Week.
When the press found out about the wedding, the pressure mounted.
“The day before my show, I got a phone call from his team,” she recalls. They said, ‘People are finding out, so we have to get the wedding to take place earlier, so now you will have three weeks. ”
“(I told them) ‘OK, we’ll do it. Don’t worry.’ But inside, I was dying. “
Designer Monique Lhuillier attends a 2018 gala. Credit: Emma McIntyre / Getty Images
In a way, she succeeded. Photos of the nuptials have been splashed in magazines and on the internet, with Spears’ white silk gown, embroidered train, and floor-sweeping veil in the spotlight. Soon more and more of his ready-to-wear items were appearing on celebrity red carpets, and Lhuillier “could sense the momentum” when people finally began to fully understand his French surname – loo-lee. -ei.
“It helped people figure out how to pronounce our name; it helped hearing it a few times on the (red) carpet. It really cemented our name and the idea of Monique Lhuillier and glamor.”
A quarter of a century later
Celebrating its 25th anniversary this year, the brand remains proudly independent, with Lhuillier as Creative Director and Bugbee as CEO. Their dresses – and now the furniture and jewelry, among other things – are American made, so the designer can stay “on the go”. (“It’s not the cheapest way to do it, but that’s how I like to work,” she said.)
Taylor Swift wearing Monique Lhuillier in 2014. Credit: Dimitrios Kambouris / Getty Images
The cover of Monique Lhuillier’s new book, a retrospective of her career published by Rizzoli. Credit: Monique Lhuillier / Rizzoli
“Jewelry, for me, was a natural (progression). It’s part of history. Without a ring, there is no dress,” she said, adding that each piece is engraved with a short message from him.
Figuring out what comes next is a tall order, especially since she has already been shown at Paris Fashion Week, received a Presidential Medal of Merit from former Philippine President Gloria Arroyo and she received the seal of approval from American first ladies Michelle Obama and Melania Trump. Lhuillier said that as an immigrant who had lived in the United States for almost 35 years, it was “an honor” to dress the women of the White House.
First Lady Michelle Obama wore Monique Lhuillier in 2014, alongside her husband President Barack Obama. Credit: Brendan Smialowski / AFP / Getty Images
The designer, who lived in the Philippines until the age of 14, said she still carries the country’s “kindness” and “traditions” to this day. Describing herself as a “citizen of the world” she said: “It was a gift to be raised in Asia… picking up all these cultures and bringing back family has always been the most important thing.”
Designer Monique Lhuillier (second from left) with models wearing her Spring 2019 bridal collection. Credit: Monique Lhuillier / Rizzoli
Yet rather than creating designs inspired by the Philippines, she believes that “good design transcends so many different cultures.”
“I decided to create this brand so that women feel empowered and they feel beautiful.”