MILAN — A long professional and personal relationship has turned into a new joint fashion project that bows for fall 2022.
The former CEO of Valextra, Sara Ferrero, and Susanna Cucco, who served as artistic director of the famous Italian accessories company, launch the Sa Su Phi collection, named after their initials and the Greek letter phi, usually used as a mathematical concept of the golden ratio – conveying the idea that it represents perfect beauty, as well as “efficiency and ease”, Ferrero said. She also explained that, phonetically, Sa Su Phi sounds like that’s enoughor “that’s enough” in French.
The goal is to deliver a collection that stands on its own, “less but better, simple but bold, and timeless, and can be worn all day, whatever the occasion,” Ferrero said, bragging its versatility, as the clothes “adapt to the personality and needs of the wearer.
In the brand’s new showroom in the center of Milan, Ferrero and Cucco, during their first interview to present the project, embodied their target clientele, wearing pieces from the collection that reflect their taste and style, honed over the years. year.
“It’s a very personal project, it’s a collection that stems from our shared vision and aesthetic,” explained Ferrero, who left Valextra in 2021 after six years. She was previously CEO of Joseph and prior to that held the same position at Furla.
“We never said let’s be the new fashion designers,” Cucco offered. “We want to present a collection designed by women for women based on what we ourselves want to wear, meeting what we believe are the needs of women today, while emphasizing the self-expression.”
The collection, which will be presented during Milan Fashion Week later this month, is centered on knitwear – a selection of cardigans, short capes, crewneck or turtleneck sweaters with sophisticated braided details – and on outerwear, with long double-breasted or belted coats. .
It is marked by key stand-alone pieces, subtle graphic textures and purist, architectural forms – architecture being a longtime passion for both women. The study of volumes goes through “the balance of solids and voids”, through side slits for example, which are not purely decorative, allowing the designer to play with layering and styling. Men’s shirts with revisited proportions and shirt dresses are also at the heart of the looks, inspired by the 80s and 90s.
The volumes are slightly oversized, and the color palette ranges from grey, dark blue or royal blue to milky white, green, bubblegum pink and canary yellow.
Durable, timeless and comfortable are the adjectives used by the duo to describe looks that are also very feminine, with sensual and rounded shapes.
The duo played on shiny and matte textures and looks, combining satin and cashmere, for example. Cashmere or knitted mohair appeared fluffy like fur in a fun and youthful pink coat.
Ferrero and Cucco have turned to the best textile manufacturers here, employing precious wools, silks and cottons from Cariaggi, Albini, Lanificio Zegna and Ratti, proud of Italian craftsmanship and Made in Italy production. His Su Phi is made by Olmar & Mirta, longtime partner of Rick Owens.
Knitwear sells for between 1,300 and 2,550 euros and outerwear for between 1,000 and 4,950 euros. A cozy cashmere jacket is sold for 1,850 euros.
“These are outfits that you would want but can’t find, and you can dress them up or down,” Cucco said.
“For 15 years, we interpreted the brands we worked for in a personal way and we didn’t want to change that with Sa Su Phi. We wanted this project to represent us,” said Ferrero, who also shares work experience with Cucco at Joseph, prior to Valextra. However, after growing the handbags and accessories categories for so long, they were ready to tackle clothing.
The COVID-19 pandemic has not stopped their enthusiasm. “Now is the time to venture out on our own, without compromise,” Cucco said.