Beneath Milan’s 18th century frescoed ceilingse Palazzo Clerici of the last century, Trussardi’s creative directors, Serhat Işık and Benjamin A. Huseby, said their intention was to “build a wardrobe that makes sense for the new Trussardi”. To that end, they paraded a collection that included staples such as polo shirts and v-neck knits in cotton and linen and developed the legendary brand’s bread-and-butter accessories, which celebrates its 111 years of activity.
Indeed, they move Trussardi’s aesthetic in a more contemporary direction – their designs reflect their values, such as inclusivity and diversity. This season, they felt they should focus on empowering women. “It feels like too many forces are trying to limit women’s autonomy, people are afraid of powerful women and that’s what really concerns us,” Işık said.
This translates into suits with strong shoulders, but also a provocative femininity, seen in jersey, draped and shimmering dresses with twisted necklines and cascading hems. Ruches, slits and ruffles added movement to long satin dresses.
The designers are in tune with the times, as they presented several denim looks, worn from head to toe and brightened up with 3D crystals or a plethora of pockets or cutouts, drawing on tradition and history of the brand with the fabric.
While the idea of contrasting the modern take on a historic brand with a stately palace is understandable, the ornate salons somewhat disturbed the gaze, which at times seemed lost. Perhaps they will be best displayed in the nearby Trussardi Palace, which is being renovated by the company and where they showed last season – despite the unfinished walls and scaffolding.
For men, they showed faux crocodile embossed trench coats in a rich chocolate hue or a bomber jacket paired with a ruched mini skirt as well as wide leg trousers. Their lightweight linen suits were perfect. The monokini straps poking out of the garments on both the men’s and women’s looks looked a little fanciful, though.
Designers reworked the newly revamped greyhound logo, dating back to 1973, on hardware details on satin wedge booties.
They highlighted Trussardi’s accessory heritage by showcasing several bags, including a new hobo bag design, the Meroe, in black, white or light blue leather and coated canvas combinations with silver greyhound rings and a wide shoulder strap.
A yellow satin drawstring clutch is inspired by an archival evening bag design from the 90s.